![]() ![]() Since I don't have any outdoor space and I have a cat and dog with hair, I built a makeshift dust tent using plastic drop cloth, masking tape, and a few chairs. The table needs to cure for 72 hours, and anything that lands on it in the first 10 will stick. So your cold garage might be out unless you have some space heaters handy! Second, think temperature: this epoxy will only cure properly at 75 degrees or more. However do not use cardboard alone, as the epoxy can soak through! In case the plastic tears at all, the cardboard can absorb some drips. ![]() I laid down cardboard under plastic sheeting. Since you'll be pouring the epoxy over the edge, you need to prepare for lots of epoxy to land on the floor. Get your workspace set up! Don't skimp on proper prep, or you'll end up with rock-hard epoxy permanently stuck to your floor. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases you make using my affiliate links. To keep up with what I'm working on, follow me on YouTube, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest, and subscribe to my newsletter. ![]() Follow all the manufacturer's instructions and safety warnings. This project is very messy and uses materials capable of causing permanent property damage and bodily harm. dust-free curing area above 75 degrees F.stir sticks and/or mixing drill accessory.Liquin or other finish for raw steel legs.polyurethane wood finish and foam brushes.wood slab, reclaimed wood, or other planar surface.I was told the spalting (pigmented ring patterns caused by fungi) made this wood very desirable.īefore beginning the transformation from slice to table, this cookie dried out in my parents' barn for about two years. This slab of maple came from my parents' property in Connecticut. So I decided to use bartop epoxy resin to finish the whole piece.Įpoxy resin doesn't stand up to high heat, so use coasters for coffee and cocoa and never put a hot pan or dish directly on the table. This live-edge piece of wood had some holes on top that I wanted to fill, and something had to be done to hold the bark on. Here's the free plans to build this coffee table.Turn a slice of raw wood into a durable coffee table! This guide follows my process for finishing a cross-cut maple "cookie" slab with epoxy resin and attaching hairpin legs. It is gorgeous, and I'm very proud that I was able to take on such a great project. This coffee table was not easy to build, but it was worth it!! I ended up spending about 8 hours on it and $150 in lumber. To protect the finish and make it wipe clean, I added a layer of clear Polyurethane. Wiping it in and off in a very light layer. So I added a watered down white paint layer, I stained the entire project with "golden oak" by Varathane. Then I sanded with 120 grit sandpaper in the direction of the wood grain. I also filled the corners that ended up having small gaps. I filled the few nail holes with wood filler. I nailed the inside panels on with 1-1/4" brad nails. I had to use a screw to help me pull the panel back in place when I was setting it (see the screw at the top left?). The inside pieces are 1x12s pocket holed together and set in place. ![]() Then I cut the bottom pieces, attach together and then fit inside the two face frames and attach to the coffee table. On the underside of the top (and later the bottom shelf) I added the 1x2 supports to help support the center of the coffee table. Then I repeated those steps for the two side panels.įor the corners, I nailed with 1-1/4" brad nails. I drilled pocket holes to attach the two pieces together, and also pocket holes to attach to the face frames.Īfter joining the two 1x12 pieces together, I attached to one of the face frames. Do double check your cuts and make sure they are straight all the way across. It was actually a challenge to make the 45 degree bevel cuts on the saw, the 1x12s wanted to move on me as I was cutting. The two face frames need to match EXACTLY. Then I clamped the face frame boards and attach with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. I was careful not to let any pocket holes show on the side edges of the face frame boards. Then I drilled 3/4" pocket holes on the ends of the shorter face frame boards. This is the smallest saw I would recommend, a 12" would work better. I am using a 10" sliding compound miter saw. The 1x3s I actually ripped from 1圆 boards to get that square edge.Īfter testing my saw, I cut the face frame boards first. My 1x12s ended up measuring 11-1/8" wide - just make sure all the 1x12 widths are the same. I did run the boards through the table saw to create the square edges. Do not attempt this project without the right tools and a good amount of building experience. This coffee table was a challenge for me, but I enjoyed stretching my skills and creating something I was super proud of in the end. ![]()
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